True Bypass Loopers, Switchers, Muters, and Volume Controls
I get a lot of questions via email about
variations on looper pedals, switchers, A-B boxes and the like. Such
projects are fun and easy because they are typically passive designs,
easy to create with basic components, and don't require power or
circuit boards. And there are lots of variations on what people
are looking for.
So it makes sense to have one big-ass article that
covers as many variations as I can think of, all in one convenient
place. Here we go...
The Mute/Kill/Stutter Switch
Let's start with the absolute simplest of
switches: the Kill Switch. A kill switch simply kills the
signal. Press the footswitch down and it mutes the signal. And
its a good introduction to the basic parts and wiring of a lot
of passive projects. Here are three variations using various
switch types.
You can also see from this diagram the basic
input and output jack arrangement. Ground is hard-wired between
the two jacks, and the tip (signal) is intercepted by the
switch.
A great source for the Momentary SPST NC switch
is at Small Bear:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1222.
Input/output jacks:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=87
A Simple Volume Attenuator
Let's say you want a foot-switchable volume
attenuator. For example, you want to drop your signal by a bit
at the stomp of a switch. Like the kill switch, this is
phenomenally easy: two jacks, a potentiometer, and a switch.
Want to do the same thing in stereo? Simply add a few jacks, a second potentiometer, and a 4PDT switch.
True Bypass Loopers
This is a circuit that provides hardware true bypass
capabilities to any pedal or outboard gear which lacks such bypass.
For example, you have a Boss pedal that you love. But you don't
love the buffer being in your signal chain all the time. So you
want to add a true bypass switch around it. You could try to hack
a big mechanical switch into your awesome Boss pedal, but that is
rarely practical. So a true-bypass box would be ideal. Here's another
place where a true bypass looper would be ideal: you have a rack-mount
device and you want to incorporate it into your pedal board. a true-bypass
looper makes this simple. To understand this circuit, check out
the following diagram:
There are two basic versions of this device: with an indicator
LED and without. First up, the True Bypass Looper with no LED
indicator. This version uses a simple DPDT switch and four 1/4
mono jacks.
To add an LED indicator, you have to add a few parts. First, the
DPDT switch is replaced with a 3PDT switch (the extra two lugs
accommodate turning the LED on and off), and a power source. The
power can either be a 9 volt battery or an AC adaptor. In the
following diagram, we'll use a standard power jack so you don't
have to worry about batteries.
Let's throw in one more variation: we'll add a volume control
that makes it easy to attenuate the level of the signal returned
from
the loop. This is accomplished by splicing a 100K log pot in the
signal line, configured as a voltage divider. Like this:
A/B Switch
The A/B switch is dirt simple: it switches a
single input between two outputs. A great example of this is
when you want a switch that routes your signal to one of two
amps:
First up is an A/B switcher using a DPDT switch and no LED
indicator.
As with the true-bypass looper discussed above, adding an
indicator involves just a few parts. For this one, we'll use two
LEDs to show an indicator for A and an indicator for B.
The Effect Order Switcher
Phaser before fuzz? Fuzz after delay? The order of effects can
change the overall tone of your signal. So wouldn't it be nice
to have a switcher that makes it easy to switch between pedal
order? This circuit does just that.
Here's how it works:
-
Plug your guitar into the input
-
Plug your amp into the output
-
Plug Send A into the input of the first pedal
-
Plug Send B into the input of the second pedal
-
Plug Return A into the output of the first pedal
-
Plug Return B into the output of the second peal
Fire it all up: when you stomp on the switch, A will be in front
of B in the signal chain. Stomp again and B will be in front of
A. Great for A/B testing of pedal order.
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